Saturday, August 05, 2006

Metals and body jewelry

Are you looking for a gift and don't know what pieces go where? Being new to body piercing and unsure of what sizes you could be wearing and what metals the jewelry should be made of. Body jewelry can be found made out of many materials, the problem is some of them are harmful. Let us start with what you should not use.

What not to use:

Never use sterling silver! Many people have the misconception that silver contains nickel which is indeed a toxic metal. There is no nickel in silver! There is however, a product called Nickel Silver, also known as German Silver but neither of these are used (or should every be used) for body jewelry. The reason silver shouldn't be used is that it corrodes when it comes in contact with sulfur which your body contains and this contact forms silver salt which is toxic.

Gold plated jewelry is made by electroplating a thin layer of gold onto a base metal, usually aluminum. Gold plate may look good and be a great price but the problem is after a while the plating will chip and flake and leave rough edges that can irritate a piercing and/or be a nice warm growing spot for bacteria.

Gold filled jewelry is made by rolling a very thin layer of gold onto a base metal, usually stainless. But to get the gold to stick to the base metal they have to first under-plate the base metal with either copper or nickel. The gold wears off exposing these base metals and they react with the sulfur in your body which can be toxic. There is a bit of an exception. If the part of the jewelry that is gold plate or gold filled does not come in direct contact with the piercing, a ball, charm, etc., and is not in the actual piercing hole, you can get away with using these metals but you still may encounter some problems.
Some pieces of jewelry can be used in different piercing. Barbells, straight or curved: Shorter 5/16", 3/8" and 7/16" in the smaller gauges of 18 and 16 can be used in the ears and eyebrows. 14ga and larger, 1/2", 5/8" and longer are used for tongues (also called tongue rings) or belly buttons and "below the belt". Most initial tongue piercing are done with at least a 14ga 3/4" to allow for swelling. After that the size down is usually to 5/8" or 1/2". Other piercing vary a lot, so ask your piercer before you purchase.

Rings: 18 and 16ga can be used for the ears and eyebrows; 14ga for lips and 20 and 18ga for nose. 14ga and larger for the nipples, belly button, female and male genital piercing. Most initial belly button are done in 14ga 7/16" or 1/2", while nipple piercing are 14ga in 1/2" or 5/8". Eyebrows are 16ga in 3/8".

Labrets: These are most commonly seen centered below the lower lip or off to the side of the upper lip, often called a "Marilyn". Marilyn's are usually a 2mm head on any length of 14ga or larger post. The piercing below the lower lip can be any gauge 14 and larger, any length and any size head. For initial piercing it is recommended you stick with the plain stainless steel ball and post in a 14ga 3/8" or 7/16" length to allow for swelling. Once it is healed you can size down to 1/4" or 5/16" and a decorative head.
Nostril screws and bones: All the nostril screws we have are 20ga stem and will fit any piercing. Some piercers will only do an initial piercing with an 18ga stem but we have decided not to manufacture them for the following reasons:

They are extremely bulky and can be felt in the nostril. Yes, you get used to it but until then it is irritating. Because the metal is wider the curve at the base of the screw is bigger and can more easily be seen in the nose.

Most body piercing are done with larger gauges to prevent them from tearing out of the skin; the nose is cartilage and holds a piercing more firmly than soft tissue such as nipples or belly buttons therefore a much smaller gauge is acceptable. The nostril bones are 18ga, but because they do not have the extra material to make the turn at the bottom of the screw they are less bulky to begin with. The gem set head nostril screws are not recommended as they stick up a bit higher and are more easily caught on towels, fingers, blankets, etc. and as with any fresh piercing the less it is irritated the faster it will heal.