Pricing structure within the diamond industry is very secretive. For consumers this can be confusing as there are often big differences in the prices of Diamond jewellery.

If however you know the exact details of the jewellery that you are hoping to buy then comparing the prices can be a whole lot easier and the differences in the prices being asked becomes a lot more transparent.

Below are some “easy to understand” reasons as to why you will find variations in prices:

1.Branding Jewellery Is Difficult – Although products are usually more expensive buying into a brand makes price comparisons easier. The prices go up or down according to which brand you are buying from.

2.Diamond Jewellery Is Very Expensive To Stock – Unfortunately a high street jeweller not only has the normal day to day running costs of a shop they also have to stock expensive jewellery that they may not sell in large numbers. They also have to contend with higher than average insurance and security costs. It is therefore necessary for high street jewelers to have high profit margins in order to cover their higher than average costs.

3.The Quality Of Diamonds Used – The price of jewellery is greatly affected by the quality of the diamonds that are set within it. What might seem like small variations in quality on paper can end up hugely affecting the price.

4.Grading Diamonds Is Not A Science – Most people are unaware that the grading of a diamond is only an opinion and not an exact science. Of course the more trusted the source is who gives the opinion is of benefit but this is the key area where you could loose money when buying jewellery.

5.Retailers With No Scruples- Many diamond jewellery retailers will try and over grade their diamonds in order to push the prices up. You should only buy jewellery from a trusted source.

Above are just some of the reasons why it is important that you trust the jeweller you are buying your diamonds off. It is vitally important that you feel comfortable with your jeweller. Ultimately an honest diamond jeweller with his reputation to keep and nothing to hide will be keen to validate his pricing.

A large number of jewellery sales are now taking place online and I believe that these numbers are set to increase as we all get used to paying for larger items on the internet. We should however employ the same techniques for buying jewellery online as we do for buying it in the high street!

Before you part with any cash I would recommend that you call the online jeweller to ask them about their company and products, above anything this should give you a feel of the type of company that you are buying from. Good online jewelers also have clear returns and delivery procedures and should always have a strong visible contact number!

There seems to be a lot of confusion over hallmarking in the UK, especially on silver items. The reason for this is simple – many items of silver jewellery simply do not require a hallmark.

Hallmarking on the three main precious metals, platinum, gold and silver, is only mandatory when the finished item is over a certain weight. In the UK this is 0.5g for platinum, 1g for gold and 7.78g for silver. This means that all items under this weight need not be hallmarked, although they will usually carry some kind of mark declaring the quality i.e. a piece of sterling silver will often carry a ‘925’ mark made by the manufacturer to signify 92.5% silver content (the silver content required for sterling silver).

Indeed, although obviously silver is available in far larger quantities than either gold or platinum, which is reflected in the price, one of the other factors that helps to keep smaller items of silver jewellery so affordable is the lack of hallmarking – it costs money to have an item hallmarked by an Assay Office.

Although silver under 7.78g and gold under 1g may not need to be hallmarked, there are restrictions in place when selling such items. You cannot for instance sell and item as ‘silver’ unless it is actually silver of 92.5% purity or better. This in effect means that you should be perfectly safe buying any jewellery under the minimum hallmarking weights even if unhallmarked from any ‘legitimate’ retailer, be they online or in the high street. If the store in question declares an item of jewellery to be made from a certain material then it has to be made from it.

As for jewellery that is fully hallmarked, recognising the hallmark can be a little trickier now than in the past. Any jewellery hallmarked in the UK conforms to a set format declaring the Assay Office that the item was hallmarked at, date and quality of the jewellery i.e. a ‘925’ inside a set of scales for sterling silver jewellery. However, jewellery manufactured within the European Economic Area (EEA) often carries marks a little different from those found in the UK but which are still valid for jewellery sold in the UK.

Despite this much of the jewellery sold in the UK is manufactured in the Far East and if over the minimum weights, will require assaying and hallmarking when it reaches the UK. As stated though, even jewellery not hallmarked will usually carry a symbol stating fineness stamped on it by the manufacturer.

So to summarise as long as the piece of jewellery that you purchased falls under the minimum required weight, don’t panic if you can’t find what appears to be a valid hallmark. If uncertain you can easily have any reputable jewellery check a piece of silver or gold to ensure that it is ‘real’, but again it is illegal to sell jewellery as silver, gold or platinum unless it is actually so with or without a hallmark. All jewellery over the minimum weights MUST be hallmarked before it can be legally sold in the UK.

It is always a pleasure to visit Malmaison, where the principal actors on the stage of the First Empire, Napoleon and Josephine, seem to haunt the rooms, which have been restored to their original state. However, to celebrate the bicentenary of the coronation of Napoleon as emperor at Notre Dame in 1804, Claudette Joannis has added to the chateau's charms with an exhibition of jewellery and personal souvenirs associated with him and many other personalities from the First and Second Empires.

A collector and authority on French regional jewellery, Mme Joannis has concentrated on displaying pieces chosen not so much for their intrinsic worth but for their personal and sentimental significance. Instead of diamonds, demonstrating imperial glory and grandeur, she shows jet, cut steel, coral and the hair of beloved individuals, living and dead. Thus she evokes the tragedy of General Charles de la Bedoyere (1786-1815), sentenced to death by Louis XVIII for welcoming Napoleon to Grenoble on his escape from Elba, and thereby turning the tide in his favour. The La Bedoyere group includes miniatures of Charles and his wife, Georgine, as well as items he wore on 19 August, 1815 as he faced the firing squad: a watch, a cravat pin containing a lock of Georgine's hair inscribed with the date of their marriage, 13 November 1813, and a ring, inscribed VALEUR FIDELITE, enclosing some hair of their son. Afterwards, Georgine placed hair cut from his head in a silver locket inscribed PLUS DE BONHEUR QU'AVEC LUI: this she wore every day until her own death, in 1871. As the family was staunchly Bonapartist, in the next generation the Comtesse de La Bedoyere was one of the thirteen ladies in waiting appointed by the Empress Eugenie, who gave her a very fine watch and chatelaine bearing the crowned imperial cipher.

Costume, Textiles And Jewellery Of India: Traditions In Rajasthan is a wondrously informative exploration of traditional Indian attire. Lavishly illustrated with full color photographs on every page, Costume, Textiles And Jewellery Of India reveals how Indian attire proclaims one's place of origin, social position, marital status, occupation, religious affiliations, and even reflections on the changing seasons as well as other psychological aspects of day-to-day life. Information drawn from fifteen years of dedicated research is transformed into a highly accessible and wondrous tour of the physical, historical, trade, cultural and spiritual factors inherent in Indian textiles. A beautiful and enriching tour as eye-catching for lay readers as it is for serious-minded garment designers understanding and inspiration in India's ancient traditions.

Over 80 jewelry makers who are creating radical new designs, blending textiles with sculpture, are changing the way jewelry is made and presented, and NEW DIRECTIONS IN JEWELLERY discusses these changes in essays which profile artists and their approaches. Distinguishing design paths, examples of various designs which defy the usual geometric and material choices, and commentary on artist and fashion statements make NEW DIRECTIONS an excellent survey of the latest trends in style and jewelry creation. A 'must' for any college-level collection strong in modern art and jewelry.

Pricing structure within the diamond industry is very secretive. For consumers this can be confusing as there are often big differences in the prices of Diamond jewellery.

If however you know the exact details of the jewellery that you are hoping to buy then comparing the prices can be a whole lot easier and the differences in the prices being asked becomes a lot more transparent.

Below are some “easy to understand” reasons as to why you will find variations in prices:

1.Branding Jewellery Is Difficult – Although products are usually more expensive buying into a brand makes price comparisons easier. The prices go up or down according to which brand you are buying from.

2.Diamond Jewellery Is Very Expensive To Stock – Unfortunately a high street jeweller not only has the normal day to day running costs of a shop they also have to stock expensive jewellery that they may not sell in large numbers. They also have to contend with higher than average insurance and security costs. It is therefore necessary for high street jewelers to have high profit margins in order to cover their higher than average costs.

3.The Quality Of Diamonds Used – The price of jewellery is greatly affected by the quality of the diamonds that are set within it. What might seem like small variations in quality on paper can end up hugely affecting the price.

4.Grading Diamonds Is Not A Science – Most people are unaware that the grading of a diamond is only an opinion and not an exact science. Of course the more trusted the source is who gives the opinion is of benefit but this is the key area where you could loose money when buying jewellery.

5.Retailers With No Scruples- Many diamond jewellery retailers will try and over grade their diamonds in order to push the prices up. You should only buy jewellery from a trusted source.

Above are just some of the reasons why it is important that you trust the jeweller you are buying your diamonds off. It is vitally important that you feel comfortable with your jeweller. Ultimately an honest diamond jeweller with his reputation to keep and nothing to hide will be keen to validate his pricing.

A large number of jewellery sales are now taking place online and I believe that these numbers are set to increase as we all get used to paying for larger items on the internet. We should however employ the same techniques for buying jewellery online as we do for buying it in the high street!

Before you part with any cash I would recommend that you call the online jeweller to ask them about their company and products, above anything this should give you a feel of the type of company that you are buying from. Good online jewelers also have clear returns and delivery procedures and should always have a strong visible contact number!

There seems to be a lot of confusion over hallmarking in the UK, especially on silver items. The reason for this is simple – many items of silver jewellery simply do not require a hallmark.

Hallmarking on the three main precious metals, platinum, gold and silver, is only mandatory when the finished item is over a certain weight. In the UK this is 0.5g for platinum, 1g for gold and 7.78g for silver. This means that all items under this weight need not be hallmarked, although they will usually carry some kind of mark declaring the quality i.e. a piece of sterling silver will often carry a ‘925’ mark made by the manufacturer to signify 92.5% silver content (the silver content required for sterling silver).

Indeed, although obviously silver is available in far larger quantities than either gold or platinum, which is reflected in the price, one of the other factors that helps to keep smaller items of silver jewellery so affordable is the lack of hallmarking – it costs money to have an item hallmarked by an Assay Office.

Although silver under 7.78g and gold under 1g may not need to be hallmarked, there are restrictions in place when selling such items. You cannot for instance sell and item as ‘silver’ unless it is actually silver of 92.5% purity or better. This in effect means that you should be perfectly safe buying any jewellery under the minimum hallmarking weights even if unhallmarked from any ‘legitimate’ retailer, be they online or in the high street. If the store in question declares an item of jewellery to be made from a certain material then it has to be made from it.

As for jewellery that is fully hallmarked, recognising the hallmark can be a little trickier now than in the past. Any jewellery hallmarked in the UK conforms to a set format declaring the Assay Office that the item was hallmarked at, date and quality of the jewellery i.e. a ‘925’ inside a set of scales for sterling silver jewellery. However, jewellery manufactured within the European Economic Area (EEA) often carries marks a little different from those found in the UK but which are still valid for jewellery sold in the UK.

Despite this much of the jewellery sold in the UK is manufactured in the Far East and if over the minimum weights, will require assaying and hallmarking when it reaches the UK. As stated though, even jewellery not hallmarked will usually carry a symbol stating fineness stamped on it by the manufacturer.

So to summarise as long as the piece of jewellery that you purchased falls under the minimum required weight, don’t panic if you can’t find what appears to be a valid hallmark. If uncertain you can easily have any reputable jewellery check a piece of silver or gold to ensure that it is ‘real’, but again it is illegal to sell jewellery as silver, gold or platinum unless it is actually so with or without a hallmark. All jewellery over the minimum weights MUST be hallmarked before it can be legally sold in the UK.

Any type of jewellery, gold, silver, diamonds, gemstones or alloys, tends to worn next to the skin and will therefore become covered with oily debris formed by dead skin cells. Dust and grit them becomes clogged into this. Also if you wear a ring when doing the washing up and do not wear rubber gloves, a greasy film will coat the backs of any stones and the inside of settings.

Most gold jewellery can be cleaned in warm, soapy water and gently brushed using an old toothbrush. Eighteen carat gold and above does not usually become tarnished and is not harmed by household chemicals. Lower carat gold is easily damaged by chlorine based bleach and cleaning products, which can cause stress corrosion cracking.

Platinum can be cleaned in the same way as the high carat golds. The patina that develops over a period of time can be removed by a professional jeweller who will repolish it back to its original high gloss look.

Silver tarnishes easily and the only effective way to clean it is by using proprietary silver cleaning solutions such as a silver dip.

Jewellery manufacturers use ultrasonic cleaning tanks which are a mixture of ammonia and detergent with the ultrasonics providing agitation to speed up the cleaning process. Many jewellery stores now sell small ultrasonic domestic cleaners, but experience has shown they are on a par with the warm, soapy water method and no more effective.

It is very difficult to damage diamonds because of their hardness, but take great care that two do not rub together as they can scratch and cause abrasion to each other. Caked on grease and other dirt on the backs of the stones should be removed with warm soapy water and an old toothbrush, rinsed and dried with a lint free cloth. Also make sure that your diamond jewellery is stored in a jewellery case and individually wrapped.

Gemstones should be treated in the same way as diamonds. But take care when cleaning any sort of stone set jewellery that you do not do this in a washbasin or sink as if any stones loosen they will go straight down the drain.

Choosing a ring isn’t really as simple as pointing to the one in the window that looks prettiest. Jewelry, especially a diamond is a major investment just like buying a house or a car. There are a few things that you need to know so that you get a stone that is not only beautiful to look at; it is also a true gem of value beyond sentiment.

Just like you may need the assistance of a good mechanic to help you check out a car before you buy it, you may need the help of a good gemologist or an honest jeweler to help you find your special gemstone from among the many pieces out there. Like any industry they have their own jargon. You don’t need to learn all their terms but you do need to become familiar with the four C’s of a diamond’s quality.

Cut is the first and most important C in choosing diamonds. There are two aspects that determine a diamonds cut. The first of which is the shape of the stone. This aspect is quite literally the geometrical shape that the artisan has chosen for the stone in order to bring out the most of its inner beauty. The stone can be shaped into your basic round or into fancy ones such as the oval, marquise, pear, emerald, princess, asscher, radiant, heart or triangle.

The artisan creates facets as they shape the diamond. The facets are flat faces that reflect light off of each other, creating the sparkle that women love, which jewelers call brilliance. If you’re lady is one who looks for brilliance, check out the round, princess or radiant pieces.

As the artisan shapes the stone, his skill shows the quality of the gem. A truly skilled artist will bring out the true beauty of the piece with precision and careful crafting. The highest grade given is ideal. Next is very good then good then fair and lastly poor. The difference in the grades translates to thousands. Unless you are filthy rich, you can actually select a stone ranked good that will look as beautiful as an ideal to your lady; the difference after all isn’t visible to the naked eye.

Next C is Clarity. Every diamond has imperfections. Imperfections are called inclusions if they are within the stone and blemishes if they are on the outside. The fewer imperfections there are in the stone, the higher its grade. The rarest are the flawless (FL) diamonds which have no imperfections whatsoever. Aside from flawless diamonds can be internally flawless (IF), very, very slightly imperfect (VVS-1 or VVS-2), very slightly imperfect (VS-1 or VS-2), Slightly Imperfect (S-1 to S-2) down to imperfect (I-1 to I-3).

To see the imperfections, you need to use a 10x loupe, a tool that your jeweler should have ready just for this purpose. Finding a gem without any imperfections is not only difficult, it’s expensive. You can get a VS-1 and save yourself a lot of money and still have a rock that your girl will love.

Most ladies like the pale colored diamonds, the kind they’ve always seen in the movies. Lately though, thanks to Hollywood celebrities, there is a demand for diamonds in pink, red, even blue. The real question here is: what would your lady like? Is she a traditionalist or a non-conformist or a fashionista? That may tell you what shade to get.

Generally speaking though, the more colorless the stone the more expensive it will be. Gemologists grade the color by letter, the highest being D. The differences in color of stones that are graded from D to H are barely noticeable to the naked eye. Again, you can have major savings from getting a lower grade.

Now, they say bigger is better. In diamonds, this may not always be true. Each diamond is weighed in a metric system called Carat - the 4th C, which is measured by 100 points. This is the least important of the 4C’s. No matter how big a stone is if it isn’t well cut, it will still be less beautiful and less valuable than a diamond of lower carat but better crafted and more brilliant. The most popular is still the one carat diamond. After all, not everybody needs to have a ring like Catherine Zeta-Jones’ 10 carat gem.

A prison to some living things and a precious stone to others, amber is indeed a fossilized resin. While some consider it a gemstone, others think that it cannot be called a precious stone because it isn’t of mineral provenience. However discussed this issue might be no argument can stop people from wearing amber jewelry. Part of the amber charm consists mainly in the fact that it immortalizes something inside it. It acts like a cryogenic pod, keeping the insects body in great shape because it doesn’t allow the bodies to decay. Some pieces of amber jewelry have prehistoric organic matter captured in their resin adding mystery and charm to the wonderfully colored jewels.

Amber jewelry has become a common thing for all people nowadays, but for a long period of time only nobility could afford it. Because it was thought it had miraculous powers their price was very high. In time, more and more people could afford to purchase amber jewelry. Today things are a little bit different. Anyone can afford amber jewelry, but the prices go from a few dollars to thousands of dollars, depending on what the buyer is looking for.

The first thing one has to decide when purchasing amber jewelry is the wanted metal for that specific piece. If it is crafted in silver the jewel can be cheaper, but if gold or platinum are used, the price can raise because these metals are more expensive. Then there is the problem of the stone. Amber stones don’t come only in the yellow-brown color. They can be yellow, red or even blue and green, but the most expensive and valuable are the transparent, clear ones. Although the brown normal stones won’t cost too much, the green ones are more expensive. The green amber isn’t different in any way compared to the brown one. The only thing that differentiates the green stones is that they’re harder to find than the brown ones.

Amber is a lot softer than any other precious stone which makes it easier to shape by jewelers. The price is influenced by the amber shape also. A stone in its original shape is cheaper, but if you want a special design the price will rise. It’s almost impossible to wear amber jewelry with a big stone on it, especially if that jewel is a pin, a pair of earrings or cufflinks. Sometimes amber has a piece of tree bark or a small insect trapped in it. A long time ago, wearing amber jewelry with something imprisoned in it was considered disgraceful and those types of stone weren’t used. Now they’re valuable and the insect or object that is trapped inside it makes a huge difference. When making amber jewelry, the jewelers try to make the inclusion as visible as possible. This makes the jewel more valuable.

Another important aspect in amber jewelry is the provenience of the stone. Jewelry with stones from the Baltic area knows a wider and more rapid spreading than other. The stones from that area are the most common, because this is the largest excavation site were amber was found. Stones from the Dominican area are also very common. They’re a little bit softer than the ones found in the Baltic area. This is the place were the blue and smoky green stones originate from.

Jewelry can usually last hundreds of years. Amber jewelry is no exception and it can be a great inheritance for the generations to come. There is only one thing you should do: keep them in perfect storage conditions. Because the stone is very soft it’s easier to scratch or chip than other precious stones, like diamonds. So, you should keep your ambler jewelry wrapped in a soft cloth. Each piece of jewelry has to be wrapped in a different cloth because, if you put them together, they might rub one against another and get their shiny surface destroyed. The stone itself has to be stored in similar conditions, away from the metal of the chain (in case it’s a pendant).

mber jewelry has to be protected from the sun and from any heat sources which will damage the gem. For cleaning purposes, amber jewelry has to be rubbed only with a soft flannel cloth and with water. Rubbing the stone with olive oil and whipping any remains from its surface will give back that extra sparkle to the piece of amber jewelry you posses. One should never use hot water, steam cleaners or any type of soap and detergent to clean amber jewelry. If that happens, there is a high risk to destroy a beautiful jewel.

In the past amber was thought to have curative proprieties and was administered internally as a powder. To keep alive the traditions and beliefs people wore amber jewelry in the aching area. These superstitions may actually be true because of the energy the stone acquires. It is said that it can heal minor illnesses like throat ache, or head ache. So, if you have a soar throat you should try wearing a necklace and it’s possible the pain will go away.

Amber jewelry is indeed much appreciated nowadays and knowing some facts about the piece that you might be wearing right now can be quite interesting. Wrapped in mystery and beauty at the same time, this gem can fascinate anyone who is interested in it. For those who want to know more, amber jewelry is just a click away.

Lack of Postings:

Sorry for the lack of new postings for a few days. However, we still have a ton of useful jewellery and silver related articles to look at in the archives.

Sadly an unexpected family death meant taking a few days off. Things are getting back to normal though so more informative posts should follow soon!

The Pink Panther Returns:

Iconic retro figures and characters are now hugely popular - and deservedly so in our opinion (or it could just be that we’re getting old and long for the good ‘ol days :) ). So why not join in the celebration of all things retro with this funky Pink Panther toe ring?
This cute sterling silver pink panther toe ring is supplied by our favourite online silver jewellery shop - Silver Jewellery World. Prices at just £3.95 it also offers great value for money.

The adjustable toe ring features stylish, curvey contouring and the eyes on the Pink Panther face are inset with two pretty pink crystals.

So treat yourself today and make your foot look great too, especially now that the open toe shoe weather is upon us.

China's import tariffs for diamonds have been lifted, but the trade is now required to go through the customs located inside the Shanghai Diamond Exchange which opened in October 2000. At the wholesale level for producers and wholesalers, all gold trading now takes place in the Shanghai Gold Exchange, introducing market prices to the transactions. A further step of liberalisation is to remove the approval requirements of China's central bank on the purchase of gold and on the production, distribution and retailing of gold products from April 2003. As regards the processing trade of gold, the approval requirements of China's central bank has been lifted since the end of 2003. A consultation paper was announced in December 2005, proposing further liberalisation regarding the import / export administration of gold and the entrance requirements for gold traders.

Effective from May 2005, the VAT on exports of jewellery articles of gold and precious materials under general trade is exempted, but the VAT on the import content of such trade, collected when imported into China, will not be rebated.

In response to the concern that diamonds from a few African sources might have been sold through illegal channels to finance civil wars and conflicts among neighbouring countries, the World Diamond Council (WDC), with some participating countries, have come up with a certification scheme to keep track of the rough diamonds exported from the African conflict areas (the so-called Kimberley Process). China, as a signatory to the Kimberley Process, has introduced this certification scheme since 1 January 2003. So has Hong Kong since 2 January 2003. Accordingly, all parties in Hong Kong carrying on a business of importing, exporting, carrying (including carrying rough diamonds in transit and transhipment), buying or selling rough diamonds must now be registered with the Trade and Industry Department (TID). They are also required to obtain Kimberley Process (KP) Certificates issued by TID before the import and export of rough diamonds.

In the EU, environmental and health concerns continue to be major issues. Environmental and health concerns will continue to rise in the EU. The EU has banned the imports of jewellery containing nickel, which can cause allergic reactions when in contact with skin. While this measure provides Hong Kong jewellery products made of other materials a niche in exporting to the EU, other suppliers have started to catch up as they adjust to the requirement.

Another important trade issue is the GSP schemes of the US and the EU. Under the US GSP scheme, jewellery imports from developing countries, most notably Thailand and India, with a few exceptions, are granted tariff exemptions, whereas similar imports from non-beneficiaries (including Hong Kong and the mainland) are charged at 0-13.5%. In the EU, the GSP scheme for jewellery originated from the mainland and Thailand has expired, but not for jewellery of Indian origin.

Other than the above official regulations, various organisations are issuing qualifications to various jewellery materials. They include the World Gold Council, the Natural Colour Diamond Association (NCDIA), and the Diamond Training Company (DTC). For example, Tanzanite Foundation has developed a grading system for tanzanite. Gaining their qualification is a increasing trend, and their measures are expected to be a standard in the future.

Pure silver is generally far too soft to be used for jewellery so is combined with other elements to improve its durability and colour. The most popular silver mix used for jewellery is Sterling Silver, which consists of 92.5% pure silver alloy with copper usually making up most of the other 7.5%. However, there is at least one company currently producing 925 (i.e. 92.5% silver or sterling silver) silver using a combination of different elements to help reduce tarnishing significantly. This is a new product though and unlikely to filter through to more mainstream silver jewellery for some time.

In the UK it’s illegal to actually call a product ‘silver’ unless it comprises of at least 92.5% pure silver, although unless the weight is greater than 7.78g silver goods do not require a hallmark by UK law. Indeed, on smaller items it is often uneconomic to have silver items hallmarked although many will carry a ‘925’ stamp usually applied abroad during the manufacturing process to indicate Sterling Silver.

Due to it’s very nature silver is prone to tarnishing with prolonged contact with the air or the chemicals found on the surface of many people’s skin. Tarnish can easily be removed by gentle polishing with a silver cloth or commercial silver dip available in most jewellers and supermarkets. However, these solutions are often unsuitable for silver jewellery inset with stone or composite jewellery so make sure to read the instructions properly before use.

Although some people will swear by more abrasive cleaners, even using something like toothpaste, this will usually simply dull the shine over time by leaving small scratches in the silver.

An alternative to occasional cleaning with specialist cleaners is simply a more regular cleaning in warm soapy water and a soft sponge or cloth. Once cleaned this way jewellery should be thoroughly dried.

Any type of jewellery, gold, silver, diamonds, gemstones or alloys, tends to worn next to the skin and will therefore become covered with oily debris formed by dead skin cells. Dust and grit them becomes clogged into this. Also if you wear a ring when doing the washing up and do not wear rubber gloves, a greasy film will coat the backs of any stones and the inside of settings.

Most gold jewellery can be cleaned in warm, soapy water and gently brushed using an old toothbrush. Eighteen carat gold and above does not usually become tarnished and is not harmed by household chemicals. Lower carat gold is easily damaged by chlorine based bleach and cleaning products, which can cause stress corrosion cracking.

Platinum can be cleaned in the same way as the high carat golds. The patina that develops over a period of time can be removed by a professional jeweller who will repolish it back to its original high gloss look.

Silver tarnishes easily and the only effective way to clean it is by using proprietary silver cleaning solutions such as a silver dip.

Jewellery manufacturers use ultrasonic cleaning tanks which are a mixture of ammonia and detergent with the ultrasonics providing agitation to speed up the cleaning process. Many jewellery stores now sell small ultrasonic domestic cleaners, but experience has shown they are on a par with the warm, soapy water method and no more effective.

It is very difficult to damage diamonds because of their hardness, but take great care that two do not rub together as they can scratch and cause abrasion to each other. Caked on grease and other dirt on the backs of the stones should be removed with warm soapy water and an old toothbrush, rinsed and dried with a lint free cloth. Also make sure that your diamond jewellery is stored in a jewellery case and individually wrapped.

Pricing structure within the diamond industry is very secretive. For consumers this can be confusing as there are often big differences in the prices of Diamond jewellery.

If however you know the exact details of the jewellery that you are hoping to buy then comparing the prices can be a whole lot easier and the differences in the prices being asked becomes a lot more transparent.

Below are some “easy to understand” reasons as to why you will find variations in prices:

1.Branding Jewellery Is Difficult – Although products are usually more expensive buying into a brand makes price comparisons easier. The prices go up or down according to which brand you are buying from.

2.Diamond Jewellery Is Very Expensive To Stock – Unfortunately a high street jeweller not only has the normal day to day running costs of a shop they also have to stock expensive jewellery that they may not sell in large numbers. They also have to contend with higher than average insurance and security costs. It is therefore necessary for high street jewelers to have high profit margins in order to cover their higher than average costs.

3.The Quality Of Diamonds Used – The price of jewellery is greatly affected by the quality of the diamonds that are set within it. What might seem like small variations in quality on paper can end up hugely affecting the price.

4.Grading Diamonds Is Not A Science – Most people are unaware that the grading of a diamond is only an opinion and not an exact science. Of course the more trusted the source is who gives the opinion is of benefit but this is the key area where you could loose money when buying jewellery.

5.Retailers With No Scruples- Many diamond jewellery retailers will try and over grade their diamonds in order to push the prices up. You should only buy jewellery from a trusted source.

Above are just some of the reasons why it is important that you trust the jeweller you are buying your diamonds off. It is vitally important that you feel comfortable with your jeweller. Ultimately an honest diamond jeweller with his reputation to keep and nothing to hide will be keen to validate his pricing.

A large number of jewellery sales are now taking place online and I believe that these numbers are set to increase as we all get used to paying for larger items on the internet. We should however employ the same techniques for buying jewellery online as we do for buying it in the high street!

Before you part with any cash I would recommend that you call the online jeweller to ask them about their company and products, above anything this should give you a feel of the type of company that you are buying from. Good online jewelers also have clear returns and delivery procedures and should always have a strong visible contact number!

GARNET - Garnets are found in various shades and colours from brown to purple shades. But its dark red variety is valued as a precious stone although the mineral is quite common. Garnet crystals are 12 faced. The stones have been prized in jewellery for over 5000 years. When many garnet crystals are gathered in a rock cavity they are likened to a ripe pomegranate. Cut as brilliants, garnets are used as ring stones with large ones as pendants, often with cabochon cut and carved. Garnets and star garnets from are found in Australia.

JADE - This is the name given to both nephrite and jadeite which are tougher than steel although not particularly hard. China, New Zealand and Alaska supply good Jade. Burma also. Brazil it occurs naturally Used since Neolithic times for weapons and tools and later for delicate carvings. Aztecs used jade. In ancient Egypt the stone was called Nemehen. Pure Jade is white with impurities causing different colours and most pieces are mottled. It is generally translucent or opaque green in colour and is lustrous rather than brilliant. The most prised of all jades is "imperial jade" the transparent emerald green coloured by chromium. It has been always revered in China as a sacred stone. Its quality as a gemstone is judged by the intensity of the green colour and its coolness to the touch. Jadeite is the rarer of the jades and Myanmar remains the only commercial source. Much of the Central American jadeite originates in Guatemala. Soapy jade is the term for the inferior grades used commonly for carving decorations, lamp stands etc.

LAPIS LAZULI - This stone consists of blue silicate lazurite with variable amounts of calcite and the brassy gold flecks of pyrite which is more abundant in the poorer quality material. Afghanistan has the best quality that consists mostly of lazurite and is deep blue. In ancient times it was also known as "sapphirus". The Egyptians used to ground it into pigment to use in paintings and murals and in eye shadow and used in manufacture of amulets and symbols, particularly in the representations of the goddess Isis and in the Sacred Eye of Horus. Later it was ground for use as pigment in religious paintings for the glorious blue of the Madonna's robes. In China, royal seals and carvings were made of it. It is considered as a sacred stone in Buddhism. Lapis lazuli is one of the most ancient in items of jewellery - having been known and used for over 6000 years. It was mined in Afghanistan and Siberia near Lake Baikal, but nowadays produced profusely in Chile.

MOONSTONE - Moonstone is a Feldspar, comprised of calcium sodium or potassium aluminium silicates. Sri Lanka is the most important source of Moonstone. India produces strongly coloured stones as beige, pink, green, yellow, grey, white and brown. It is considered to be a sacred stone in India and by tradition, it is always cut en cabochon. It is an important stone in Ayurvedic medicine. Beautiful sheens come as with other stones, with subjected light and its particular sheen is called "adularescence" and most prized when the sheen is bluish in colour. Throughout the world it is associated with the Moon and very popular semi precious stone is used in jewellery everywhere. Their fascination lies in their gentle glowing and elusive sheen and above all the softness of their quality, compared with the strength and brilliance of faceted jewels.

OPAL - Opal is one of the few gem minerals which is non crystalline. Opals are referred to in history and in legend. Pliny is said to have liked it and Orpheus is said to have declared that the opal 'fills the heart of the gods with joy". Shakespeare refers to ... "this miracle and Queen of gems". Opal consists of pure silica (silicon combined with oxygen) with traces of numerous compounds which explains the many differing types. Opals were rare in antiquity. It is thought to have become commonly known only after the time of Alexander the Great. The only known mines in the earliest times were the Carpathian Mountains. The stone is extremely porous with the weight varying in proportion to the amount of contained water. The colours are determined by structure and the light which causes ever changing effect. Finest opal and opalized wood and fossils are found also in Australia at Coober Pedy and Andamooka. France also supplies some and also Idaho... Opals are usually cut as en cabochon. Their varieties include - Hungarian opals are very fine and were once popular in Europe.

Mexican Opals fine transparent variety of opal - Black opals are extremely vivid flashes of colour including red, with dark background and of highest value Milky opal or white opals are opaque with smaller and less spectacular softer markings and colours. Fire opals or Harlequin Opal is the finest quality and variety of gemstone Water Opal is clear and colourless with internal play of colour. Rose Opal or potch opal has a beautiful pink colour but opaque. Hydrophane Opal is opaque but appears colourless in water.

PEARL - Along with Coral, this extremely popular gemstone used in jewellery, is found in the seas not the land and is therefore not of the same composition nor characteristics of the earth born gemstones. Care must be taken to preserve the quality of pearls. Pearls are made of calcium carbonate formed within an oyster. The basic irritant is usually a grain of sand which stimulates the oyster to cover it with its own body secretion - eventually forming the well known round and perfect pearl. The lustre of the pearl comes from minute crackles on its surface - finer than those on opals. Their lustre increases in the body warmth of human beings and therefore the practice of allowing the shop attendants to wear the strings of pearl has a practical basis. Different pearl qualities depend upon colour and size and range from the tiniest "seed pearls" to the rare gems of considerable size Harvesting pearls from the wild is singularly unrewarding and cultured pearls have been able to meet the demand for these beautiful natural ornaments. Cultured pearls have been produced in China for several centuries as now in Japan, Australia and the Pacific.

RUBY - Next to diamond, rubies (and sapphires) are the most valued of the gems. Ruby is a variety of corundum, When the corundum includes chromium, it becomes ruby, when it contains titanium and iron instead and therefore is blue - the sapphire. The world's finest come from Myanmar, Pakistan and Afghanistan, also Burma, Thailand, India and Ceylon .Burmese ones are exceptionally beautiful - found near Mogo N.E. of Mandalay. "Pigeon Blood" rubies are the highest in the scale of value. Thai Rubies are often found with spinel and are darker red than the Burmese Rubies. A fine ruby is a magnificent gemstone. Ruby has been synthetically produced successfully since 1904. But the genuine rubies are valued because of their rarity and therefore have not dropped in commercial value, in fact have risen. Rubies are also used in Space research in connection with communication systems to cut out surface sounds of the earth and pick up beams from space.

SAPPHIRE - Pink Sapphires, Blue sapphires and Yellow Sapphires are found in Thailand and East Africa. They are next to diamond in hardness and therefore resistant to wear. Australia is the largest producer of blue and golden sapphires. Non-blue sapphires are White Sapphires or Golden Sapphires. The largest sapphire known was 950 carats from Burma. The largest in Australia was 886 carats from Queensland in 1934. There are star sapphires and star rubies found which contain fine fibre crystals giving star effect when cut in en cabochon.

The history of jewellery is a long one, with many different uses among different cultures. It has shaped the course of history and provided various insights into how ancient cultures worked. One universal factor, however, is control over who could wear what jewellery. In ancient Rome, for instance, only certain ranks could wear rings [4](Chapter 4); later, sumptuary laws dictated who could wear what type of jewellery; again based on rank. Cultural dictates have also played a significant role; for example, the wearing of earings by Western men was considered "effeminate" in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Religion has also played a role: Islam for instance considers the wearing of gold by men as Haram[5], and many religions have edicts against excessive display.

Early jewellery:

The first signs of jewellery came from the Cro-Magnons, ancestors of Homo sapiens, around 40,000 years ago. The Cro-Magnons originally migrated from the Middle East to settle in Europe and replace the Neanderthals as the dominant species. The jewellery pieces they made were crude necklaces and bracelets of bone, teeth and stone hung on pieces of string or animal sinew, or pieces of carved bone used to secure clothing together. In some cases, jewellery had shell or mother-of-pearl pieces. In southern Russia, carved bracelets made of mammoth tusk have been found. These adornments were often placed in their owner’s graves after they died. Around 7,000 years ago, the first sign of copper jewellery was seen, thus starting the popular trend of metal jewellery. [6]
Jewellery in Africa:

Jewellery in Egypt:

The first signs of established jewellery making in Africa was in Ancient Egypt around 3,000-5,000 years ago. The Egyptians preferred gold as their jewellery material, as it was easy to shape, was rare and luxurious and seldom tarnished. Before the first resemblance of a dynasty in Egypt, the country had already acquired much gold to make jewellery with. Although the Egyptians acquired gold from the eastern deserts of Africa and from Nubia, in later years they captured it in the spoils of war or were gifted it in tributes from other nations.
Jewellery in Egypt soon began to symbolise power and religious power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death. In numerous Egyptian tombs, corpses and mummies are adorned with jewellery and artefacts. They were placed there to accompany the dead owner into the afterlife, such is the case with King Tutankhamen, who was buried with many pieces of gold and fine jewellery. However, the abundance of jewellery inside these tombs has caused many of them to be looted and most pieces of ancient Egyptian jewellery have been lost into the black market or private collections.

In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass in place of precious gems. Although the Egyptians had access to gem stones, they preferred the colours they could create using their colour over the natural colours of the stones. For each gem stone, there was usually a combination mixture that was used by the Egyptians to mimic it. The colour of the jewellery was very important, as different colours meant different things; the Book of the Dead stated a law that the necklace of Isis around a mummy’s neck must be red to satisfy Isis’s need for blood, while green jewellery meant new growth for crops and fertility. Although lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country’s borders, most other materials for jewellery were found in or neighbouring Egypt, for example in the Red Sea, where the Egyptians started one of the first mines on Earth in search of Queen Cleopatra’s favourite gem, the emerald.

Egyptian jewellery was predominantly made in giant workshops attached to temples or palaces by numerous jewellery makers. Each had a different title according to the details of their job; for example a bead maker was called an iru weshbet, while a goldsmith was called a neby.
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Diamonds in Africa

In South Africa, diamonds and gold used for jewellery contributed to the Second Boer War in the 1840’s, after massive amounts of British miners migrated to the area. South Africa is currently the number one producer of gold in the world. Numerous other countries, such as Sierra Leone, have found diamonds and other precious gems used in jewellery within their borders. Especially in Africa, the diamonds are often mined secretly and transported out during times of civil war or conflict. When this happens, the diamonds mined are called “Blood diamonds” or “War diamonds”. Often rebel groups stage uprisings for the sole purpose of capturing gold and diamond mines. Although diamonds were first mined in India, Africa has become infamous for its conflicts over diamonds and gold.

Jewellery (Jewelry in American English) is literally any piece of fine material used to adorn one’s self. The word jewellery is derived from the word jewel, which was anglicised from the Old French "jouel" in around the 13th century. Further tracing leads back to the Latin word "jocale", meaning plaything.

Jewellery has probably been around since the dawn of man; indeed, recently found 100,000 year-old Nassarius shells that were made into beads are thought to be the oldest known jewellery.[1] Although in earlier times jewellery was created for more practical uses, such as pinning clothes together, in recent times it has been used almost exclusively for decoration. Jewellery making on a large scale first originated in Egypt, Italy, China and the Americas approximately 5,000 years ago, although jewellery had been made on a smaller scale for many centuries prior. The first pieces of jewellery were made from natural materials, such as bone and animal teeth, shell, wood and carved stone. Jewellery was often made for people of high importance to show their status and in many cases, they were buried with it.

Now jewellery is made out of almost every material known to man and comes in many different shapes and sizes. There are necklaces, bracelets, earrings, brooches, ringss, toe rings, tongue rings, belly button rings and many more types of jewellery. It typically made with gemstones and precious metals and as original pieces or limited editions while costume jewellery is made from less valuable materials and mass-produced.
Form and function:
Over time, jewellery has been used for a number of reasons:

* currency, wealth display and storage,
* functional use (such as clasps, pins, and buckles)
* symbolism (to show membership or status)
* protection (in the form of amulets and magical wards), and
* artistic display

Most cultures have at some point had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures move wedding dowries in the form of jewelry, or create jewelry as a means to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a currency or trade good; a particularly poignant example being the use of slave beads

Functional use dates back to the earliest days of jewellery; indeed, many items of jewelry, such as brooches and buckles originated as purely functional items, became more decorated over time, and in some cases became purely art objects as their functional requirement disappeared.

Jewellery can also be symbolic of group membership, as in the case of the Christian crucifix or Jewish Star of David, or status, as in the case of chains of office, or the Western practice of married people wearing a wedding ring.

Wearing of amulets and devotional medals to provide protection or ward off evil is nearly universal; these may take the form of symbols (such as the ankh), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the Khamsa), or glyphs (such as stylized versions of the Throne Verse in Islamic art).[2]

Although artistic display has clearly been a function of jewellery from the very beginnings, the other roles described above tended to take primacy. It was only in the late 19th century, with the work of such masters as Peter Carl Fabergé and René Lalique, that art began to take primacy over function and wealth. This trend has continued into modern times, expanded upon by artists such as Robert Lee Morris.

The models that were in vogue, those days, are selected from old photographs and then made and sold. Skilled goldsmiths are identified and they are entrusted with the job of making the jewels. The goldsmiths also benefit a great deal. The store claims that the pearls and stones used in the jewellery are imported from Burma (Myanmar) and are of the highest quality.

"We are the only ones making this kind of ethnic jewellery in Chennai. Though other shops also sell some of these models, they get lost among the numerous other models that are available. Time was when regular buyers of ethnic jewellery were all foreigners. Today, however, our own people have started to appreciate these jewellery and hence the demand is quite good. Since we stock only ethnic jewellery, we are able to make our customers focus on this. People are prepared to wait and get the models they are interested in. This is proof that the demand is good."
"We have jewellery of South India, North. India, Andhra, Kerala, the whole works. Though we have only one branch, in Mylapore, people come looking for our shop and buy the items. Our name is a good advertisement, by itself," says Rajesh.
In Chennai we do know that even in this 'modern' age, with all the tensions and pressures, people are moving towards preservation of heritage, some old values, etc. Starting from one's attire, to food to Tanjore paintings, there is very good appreciation and demand for traditional items.

Some time ago, it was thought that any talk of heritage or tradition was the domain of the old, retired folks, and the jobless. Not any more. It is big biz now! This is validated by the 'sudden' appearance of ethnic jewellery and the demand for the same.

Prince Jewellery, the premium jewellery store, inaugurated its annual Antique Jewellery Exhibition at its Spencer Plaza outlet July 3. The exhibition was unveiled by popular film and TV star, Khushboo, at an exclusive event for key customers. The 15-day exhibition will be open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

The exhibition presents a spectacular collection of 'ancient secrets', offering old world charm in jewellery, and providing an opportunity to re-live the glory of the past for jewellery enthusiasts. The exhibition will display a wide range of exclusive antique jewellery especially shipped to Chennai from across the country.

Explaining the rationale behind the 'antique jewellery' theme, Princeson Jose, director - Prince Jewellery, said, "The need to rediscover the glory of past years has grown in our society. This trend has seen its manifestation in jewellery as well, and we picked up the signals early last year. Last year's Antique Jewellery Exhibition was a great success - among existing customers, and new ones. As pioneers in the jewellery business, Prince Jewellery takes pride in setting these new trends, and we believe the 'antique' theme is here to stay!"
Prince Jewellery's 'Ancient Secrets' collection includes finely crafted jewellery that once sparkled on the sands of Rajasthan, rubies that adorned the Chettinad kingdom, treasures from the Malabar Coast and other exciting exhibits - each with a royal history of its own!