Saturday, August 05, 2006

Caring for your diamonds

Diamonds have been formed over millions of years through "crystallization" and most contain small inclusions or imperfections. They appear in the form of small specks and generally are only visible with a jeweler's loupe. The fewer the inclusions, the better the quality and higher the cost. Clarity impacts a diamond's ability to reflect and refract light. A basic knowledge of diamonds will help you find and buy a gem that is everything you want it to be and also within your budget.

When not wearing precious jewelry, keep it in an appropriate soft-lined jewelry case.

Natural skin oils, lotions, perfume and hair spray can diminish the beauty of your diamond.

Use a commercial jewelry cleaner or use a solution of cold water and household ammonia (equal parts) to soak in for ½ hour.

Use a soft, old toothbrush and gently work between the prongs and underneath your diamond. Rinse in water and let it dry on tissue paper.

Bring your diamond to a jeweler to make sure the settings are secure once every year or two.

Have your diamond appraised by a qualified jeweler. Be sure to tell your jeweler that it should be appraised for retail replacement cost.

Metals and body jewelry

Are you looking for a gift and don't know what pieces go where? Being new to body piercing and unsure of what sizes you could be wearing and what metals the jewelry should be made of. Body jewelry can be found made out of many materials, the problem is some of them are harmful. Let us start with what you should not use.

What not to use:

Never use sterling silver! Many people have the misconception that silver contains nickel which is indeed a toxic metal. There is no nickel in silver! There is however, a product called Nickel Silver, also known as German Silver but neither of these are used (or should every be used) for body jewelry. The reason silver shouldn't be used is that it corrodes when it comes in contact with sulfur which your body contains and this contact forms silver salt which is toxic.

Gold plated jewelry is made by electroplating a thin layer of gold onto a base metal, usually aluminum. Gold plate may look good and be a great price but the problem is after a while the plating will chip and flake and leave rough edges that can irritate a piercing and/or be a nice warm growing spot for bacteria.

Gold filled jewelry is made by rolling a very thin layer of gold onto a base metal, usually stainless. But to get the gold to stick to the base metal they have to first under-plate the base metal with either copper or nickel. The gold wears off exposing these base metals and they react with the sulfur in your body which can be toxic. There is a bit of an exception. If the part of the jewelry that is gold plate or gold filled does not come in direct contact with the piercing, a ball, charm, etc., and is not in the actual piercing hole, you can get away with using these metals but you still may encounter some problems.
Some pieces of jewelry can be used in different piercing. Barbells, straight or curved: Shorter 5/16", 3/8" and 7/16" in the smaller gauges of 18 and 16 can be used in the ears and eyebrows. 14ga and larger, 1/2", 5/8" and longer are used for tongues (also called tongue rings) or belly buttons and "below the belt". Most initial tongue piercing are done with at least a 14ga 3/4" to allow for swelling. After that the size down is usually to 5/8" or 1/2". Other piercing vary a lot, so ask your piercer before you purchase.

Rings: 18 and 16ga can be used for the ears and eyebrows; 14ga for lips and 20 and 18ga for nose. 14ga and larger for the nipples, belly button, female and male genital piercing. Most initial belly button are done in 14ga 7/16" or 1/2", while nipple piercing are 14ga in 1/2" or 5/8". Eyebrows are 16ga in 3/8".

Labrets: These are most commonly seen centered below the lower lip or off to the side of the upper lip, often called a "Marilyn". Marilyn's are usually a 2mm head on any length of 14ga or larger post. The piercing below the lower lip can be any gauge 14 and larger, any length and any size head. For initial piercing it is recommended you stick with the plain stainless steel ball and post in a 14ga 3/8" or 7/16" length to allow for swelling. Once it is healed you can size down to 1/4" or 5/16" and a decorative head.
Nostril screws and bones: All the nostril screws we have are 20ga stem and will fit any piercing. Some piercers will only do an initial piercing with an 18ga stem but we have decided not to manufacture them for the following reasons:

They are extremely bulky and can be felt in the nostril. Yes, you get used to it but until then it is irritating. Because the metal is wider the curve at the base of the screw is bigger and can more easily be seen in the nose.

Most body piercing are done with larger gauges to prevent them from tearing out of the skin; the nose is cartilage and holds a piercing more firmly than soft tissue such as nipples or belly buttons therefore a much smaller gauge is acceptable. The nostril bones are 18ga, but because they do not have the extra material to make the turn at the bottom of the screw they are less bulky to begin with. The gem set head nostril screws are not recommended as they stick up a bit higher and are more easily caught on towels, fingers, blankets, etc. and as with any fresh piercing the less it is irritated the faster it will heal.

Friday, August 04, 2006

Jewellery in ancient India

Jewellery is worn by all, irrespective of social status or wealth, in India. The essence of India is truly expressed in its style, its craft, its sensibility, belief, rituals and customs. For a country that is geographically, historically and culturally diverse, its jewellery has perhaps, been the only unifying factor.

In India, like other human cultures of the world, jewellery was the earliest art form fashioned by man. Jewellery communicated messages of love, hate, power, hierarchy, marriage, widowhood etc. Gold and jewels came to be associated with the four aspects of life that concerned mankind - power, health, wealth and religion.

Individual items of jewellery, in classical Indian literature, were integral to a plot or served as a link in the story line. In Ramayana, for example, on Sita's wedding day, her father King Janaka presented her the head ornament (Chudamani) that he himself had received from Kubera, the god of wealth, which she later sent to Rama, through Hanuman, to confirm their meeting.

India was a principal production centre for beads by 3000 B.C. The origin of the simple black bead goes back to the 7th millennium B.C. To this day the lowly bead is yet the most auspicious ornament a mother gives her daughter. Lapis lazuli, turquoise, coral, carnelian, jasper and a variety of semi precious hard stones were imported from Indus valley cities of Harappa, Mohenjo-daro, Lothal where they were cut shaped and bored and re-exported to destinations beyond India.

Mention of treasures and gold in the Vedas compensates absence of material remains between 1500-500 B.C. In Vedic times the custom of exchanging jewels at weddings was also prevalent. India was the principal supplier of diamond and precious gems by 1st century A.D. The Kushan Empire encompassed a very vast area in which immense sophistication thrived.

The Gupta period (circa A.D.320-600) is marked to have wealth and quality of court life than any other period in Indian history. Jewellery forms on sculptures have been seen to become more stereotypical and stylised, from the post-Gupta Era.

In ancient India, South India was repository of much of the mineral wealth in the country. In the 2nd century the town of Madurai was one of the principal gem markets. The ancient dynasties of the South amassed immense wealth and lavished it with unrivalled profligacy.

The Cholas acquired their wealth through military conquests and held a monopoly over the gold mines and the pearl fisheries and gems of Ceylon. There was very little infliction of the Mughal culture despite their continuous invasion into the south.

Kautilya (4th century B.C) declared that the trade route across Dakshinapathaka was the "superior route" for it was rich in mines and had abundant 'diamond, rubies, pearls and gold.' Jewellery in southern India did not evolve in response to changing India, more than any other part of country

The treasure of the Mughal Emperors augmented the treasures by appropriating the wealth of the Indian states by military conquest The imperial treasury included items diverse as one thousand saddles of gold and drinking cups carved with rubies and emerald, over two thousand jewelled broaches for the hair and infinite numbers of diamond and pearl chains. The list was so exhausting that no one other than the keeper of the treasury knew its exact amount.

Jewels are linked with the past for the simple reason that these small objects of beauty concentrate on the culture of love and wealth. The power and pride of kingdoms was enshrined in jewels.

'Gold is Old' in Chennai (Part II)

The models that were in vogue, those days, are selected from old photographs and then made and sold. Skilled goldsmiths are identified and they are entrusted with the job of making the jewels. The goldsmiths also benefit a great deal. The store claims that the pearls and stones used in the jewellery are imported from Burma (Myanmar) and are of the highest quality.

"We are the only ones making this kind of ethnic jewellery in Chennai. Though other shops also sell some of these models, they get lost among the numerous other models that are available. Time was when regular buyers of ethnic jewellery were all foreigners. Today, however, our own people have started to appreciate these jewellery and hence the demand is quite good. Since we stock only ethnic jewellery, we are able to make our customers focus on this. People are prepared to wait and get the models they are interested in. This is proof that the demand is good."

"We have jewellery of South India, North. India, Andhra, Kerala, the whole works. Though we have only one branch, in Mylapore, people come looking for our shop and buy the items.

In Chennai we do know that even in this 'modern' age, with all the tensions and pressures, people are moving towards preservation of heritage, some old values, etc. Starting from one's attire, to food to Tanjore paintings, there is very good appreciation and demand for traditional items.

Some time ago, it was thought that any talk of heritage or tradition was the domain of the old, retired folks, and the jobless. Not any more. It is big biz now! This is validated by the 'sudden' appearance of ethnic jewellery and the demand for the same.

Thursday, August 03, 2006

'Gold is Old' in Chennai

Old is Gold' is a well-known saying, but today 'Old' models in gold is the in thing! It proves once more that most often 'modern' is old wine in a new bottle!

In the olden days, marudani (a green leaf variety) in paste form was used by the women folk for decorating their hands and feet. Then this practice was dismissed as useless, for some time. Today this has become a fashion trend, albeit in a new avatar, as Tattoo, and not confined to the hands and feet only, though!

In the movies of yesteryears, it was quite common to see heroines, particularly in the role of queens or princesses bedecked with literally 'tons' of jewellery. Movie-goers have longed to own some of those pieces and found all those designs not available in the market. All ye, take heart! These models and designs are very much available in Chennai, now!

'Ethnic Jewellery Mart' near Kapaleeswarar temple sells only heritage jewellery. One can get to see and buy a whole range of 'old' designs. The collection is not confined to the heritage of Tamilnadu. It covers the entire country. The prices range from Rs.1500 to Rs. 1,00,000 and more.

One can buy the South Indian 'favourites' like 'South Indian traditional mango malai', 'Ruby magri malai', 'Ruby adigai', Kaapu', 'Dollar', 'Kar vanki', 'Thaiyat', 'Gundumalai' 'Padakkam', 'Moap', 'Odiyanam', 'Gowri sankar', etc.

One can also buy 'Uncut diamonds' of Rajasthan, ruby bangles of Coorg, Burma and necklaces and navaratna malais (a long necklace) from here.

"We have countless designs," says Rajesh, Manager, Ethnic Jewellery Mart. The shop was started a year ago by Madanchand and family, who have been in the jewellery business for more than 35 years. They have organised an exhibition in the city as part of their First Anniversary celebrations.

A Diamond is forever....

The word 'diamond' comes from the Greek word Adams, meaning 'unconquerable. Ancient Greeks believed that diamonds were splinters of stars fallen to earth and that Cupid's arrows were tipped with diamonds which have a magic that nothing else can quite equal. Diamonds personify value and they are lifelong reminders of love and attachment. And having sealed a bond for one generation, they can be passed unblemished to the next. The exact origin of diamonds is still a mystery. Mainly used in royal or religious regalia, diamonds were born in the fiery depths of the earth more than three million years ago. They have risen to the surface to become brilliant and priceless symbols of love.

There is undoubtedly no other gemstone that can thrill the beholder quite like a diamond. People believed that a diamond could make one invincible. Diamonds were first discovered in India. One of the most beautiful diamonds known to man, The 'Koh-i-noor' or Mountain of Light, cut by highly skilled Moghul craftsmen, is now a part of the Crown Jewels. The 'Regent' was cut in England, sold to France and finally found its way to the Crown Jewels. The equally famous 'Orloff,' now in Russia, was stolen from the eye of a Hindu idol in Mysore.

A diamond is the ultimate symbol of love and the best compliment that a man can pay to a woman. The diamond acquired its unique status as the ultimate gift of love as far back as the 15th century, when the Arch Duke Maxmillan of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a diamond ring as a promise of marriage. Ever since, a diamond ring has become synonymous with an engagement. Rich folks make it a point to exchange rings made of diamond and it has become a status symbol. Diamonds are valued for their weight in carats and for the finely made cuts that help them sparkle in different hues.

Every diamond is precious, unique and lasts forever. That's why it has always been the natural way to express love. And when two people get engaged, a diamond ring says they plan to stay together always. Brilliant, priceless and rare - just like true love. There's no other gemstone that says so many beautiful things about a woman. A diamond is the most cherished and longed-for token of love. Though expensive enough to be beyond the common man's reach, it rests in everyone's dreams as a product to possess and cherish.

Wednesday, August 02, 2006

Birth stones

Throughout history, various gems and precious stones have been attributed to each of the signs of the zodiac. There is little agreement as to the "correct" birthstones. There are ancient as well as modern assignments of stones to the signs and planets with controversy surrounding most. The use of gems as talismans was founded on the assumption that different stones possess different powers and virtues. Depending on which experts you consult, the use of gems as charms began in either ancient India or Babylon at least 4,500 years ago. In both places, the choosing of gems was far too important a duty to entrust to jewelers. One consulted an astrologer for recommendations based on one's horoscope. Later, Jewish and Christian theologians developed their own interpretations of the 12-gem breastplate of Aaron made 3,500 years ago.
The modern birthstone list came into being in 1912 in Kansas City, Mo., when the National Association of Jewelers met to revise the list which had been in widespread use since the 15th century. Gemstone purists complained that the new list was devised for commercial purposes. As a result, astrologers who prescribed gems often substituted alternate or secondary stones. Although in the West, different gems have been recommended to tally with the date and month of birth, numerology and sign of the Zodiac, in Indian Astrology several factors have to be taken into consideration along with a horoscope and the position of various planets and their influence in life before gems are advised for wear. However, the navaratna (nine gems) are suitable for almost all persons. It is believed that the nine stones when worn together bring abundant wealth, happiness, renown, longevity, honour and mental peace.

Gem Stones

In Hindu astrology, the nine planets of the solar system are represented by precious stones. The navaratna as they are called, became extremely popular even amongst Mughal invaders. It was popularly believed that wearing suitable stones brings in luck and good fortune. Though several gems are used in Indian jewels, only nine of them are termed as Navaratna. They are the Ruby, Pearl, Diamond, Coral, Emerald, Topaz, Sapphire, Gomedha and Cat's Eye. Out of these Ruby, Pearl, Diamond, Emerald and Sapphire are qualified as Maharatnas meaning the Most Superior Gems.

According to Hindu mythology there are three kinds of gems - those that belong to swarga loka (heaven), to patala loka (hell) and to mrityu loka (valley of the dead).

The four gems that belong to swarga loka are:

Chintamani is white in colour and is worn by Brahma

Kaustubhamani the colour of a lotus flower is worn by Vishnu

Rudramani is gold in colour and is worn by Shiva

Syamantakamani is a brilliant blue gem worn by Indra.

The serpents that inhabit patala loka wear precious gems in black, blue, yellow, green, white, red, pink and milky colors. All precious and semi-precious stones known on earth are stones of the mrityu loka.

Stones that are rare and durable are called as gem stones. "A precious stone is a small, rare, hard stone which has inherited from nature the name beautiful." Significant characteristics of any gem stone are rarity, hardness, natural origin and beauty together with chemical resistance.

While Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Sapphire are termed as precious stones, Opal, Jade, Amethyst, Aquamarine and Garnet are called semi-precious stones. These semi-precious stones are sufficiently attractive to be used in jewellery, but are not so rare and hence termed as semi-precious stones.

Precious stones:

Diamond is one of the precious stones that appears to be colourless when viewed with a naked eye, but has different shades. Colour variations occur from the extreme temperature and pressure degree, dating back to millions of years, when diamond was created.

Fancy coloured diamonds like vivid green, blue (like world’s famous diamond - HOPE), pink and red diamonds are some of the rare and valuable pieces. A single colour grade can significantly affect a diamonds value. Yellowish tinges are found due to traces of nitrogen making it very rare. Main countries where diamonds can be found are South Africa, Australia and Russia.

Ruby is one of the precious stones. The presence of a small amount of chromium oxide is responsible for its rich hue. Apart from colours the value of a ruby depends on clarity. This stone has less number of inclusions. The top quality ruby is of red colour. The word ruby is a Latin word for red - Ruber that is derived from similar words in Persia, Hebrew and even Sanskrit. "The factors like clarity, cut and size equally makes a ruby valuable."

Sapphire, the precious gemstone, belongs to the corundum group. It is available in different colours like blue, green, purple, yellow, brown, white, pink-white, etc. All colours except red are found in a sapphire and a red sapphire would be a ruby.

Emerald is the precious stone belonging to the BERYL group. It is available in green (bright green, yellowish green), deep red (due to presence of chromium), Black emerald, though rare, is found in Pakistan. The black effect is due to total internal reflection. Emerald is commonly found in Colombia, Siberia, Russia, South America, Pakistan and India.

Pearl is an organic gem found in white, yellow, gray, purple, pink, blue and black colours. Persian Gulf, Red Sea and Indian Ocean are the main source for pearls. It is "used as found". No cutting or polishing is done on them, just a hole is drilled or pierced. Pearls are of two types, namely fresh water pearls (which have a wide colour range and have thick layer of nacre) and cultured pearls (which has a thin layer of nacre)

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Matt for Indian and Western outfits

The matt effect has been very popular with lipsticks and nail polishes, but now imitation jewellery too shall have the same matt finish to give that much of a desired matted look! These golden colour ornaments like ear-studs, jhumkas, rings, necklaces, and so on have stolen the show as they come without the loud gloss and glitter. Matt jewellery gives a very contemporary look blended with a funky appeal. So they can be worn both with Indian as well as Western outfits.

They are absolutely inexpensive compared to gold jewellery and yet they look equally elegant and dignified. The designs are arresting and they are studded with shining American diamonds to give that gorgeous, chic look! A lot of matt jewellery which are studded with ‘Kundans’ (uncut stones) generate an antique look.

The durability of matt jewellery is about six months after which the colour fades gradually and they need to be polished. They can be polished with chemicals like radium to regain their shine. The price also varies according to the quality and the place one picks them from. These inexpensive imitation jewellery do not appear fake at all, as they are fantastic replications of the Indian traditional jewellery. People are indulging in these imitation jewellery in order to look gorgeous and also feel safe about their ornaments! So the followers of high street fashion must ensure that they have these latest fashionable accessories to go with their clothes!

If you are feeling bored wearing a simple chain and a locket, guess what, it is time for you to wear it the other way round! It can give you smart, chic look. And long chains can carry this fashion better than shorter ones. The procedure of sporting this fashion statement is simple. Wear your chain as a loop but not in the conventional way of wearing chains. Don’t lock the open ends; instead clip the chain at the nape of your neck with the help of a gorgeous brooch pin such that a considerable length of the chain dangles freely from both ends. You can use a small stone-studded hair clip as well.

You must ensure that the style is seen completely or else the charm will be lost .Hence this creative accessory will look best with flashy party wears such as off shoulder, one strap dresses, spaghettis, and of course cocktail dresses. You can sprinkle silver, golden and matching coloured glitters around the accessory on your neck. This will certainly make you dazzle in a crowd!

White Sapphire substitute for Diamond

White Sapphire, along with its sister the Ruby, is of the mineral corundum. While coloured sapphires owe their colours to varying chemical combinations, white sapphires are pure corundum and therefore colourless. Because of its hardness (corundum is the hardest mineral known next to diamond), sapphires are one of the best stones for all types of jewellery users.

Natural white sapphire is a brilliant natural substitute for diamond and affordable too! These bright stones have been expertly cut and polished and are perfect either as the main stone in the Amulet jewellery creation or as accents for that finishing touch. With a hardness of 9, white sapphires are very durable, making them an excellent choice for any jewellery piece.

In the 1980s the technique for infusing blue (and more recently red) colour into the surface of the sapphire was perfected. This process is known as diffusion treatment. The chemicals that cause the blue colour in the sapphire (iron oxide and titanium oxide), are induced into the surface layer of the sapphire by heating the stone almost to its melting point (about 1800 C). Natural white sapphire has become very scarce in the marketplace since "treaters" have consistently outbid gem dealers for the larger sapphire rough.

The sapphire, September's birthstone, is one of the oldest known stones in written history. The ancients credited the sapphire to be endowed with the power to influence spirits, to be a charm against unfaithfulness and capable of making peace between foes. White sapphire is a good stone to wear for it has a self-nurturing tendency. It stimulates the crown chakra, revealing the talents of the self. It is a stone which supports morality, justice and freedom from greed. Sapphires are traditionally given for fifth and forty-fifth anniversaries.

Monday, July 31, 2006

Platinum - A Lustrous History

The very sound of the word evokes images of sheer luxury, an air of mystique and the perfect marriage of beauty and rarity. Although platinum may sound new, it is also legendary. Discovered by the ancient Egyptians about 3000 years ago, it was highly prized by South American Incas and the Egyptians. Platinum reached its peak of popularity in the early 1900s when it was the preferred metal for all fine jewellery in America. When World War II began, the U.S. government declared platinum a strategic metal and its use in non-military applications, including jewelry, was disallowed.

France's Louis XVI proclaimed it the only metal fit for royalty. Legendary jewelers such as Cartier, Faberge and Tiffany created their timeless designs in platinum. The world's famous diamonds, including the Hope, Jonker I and Kohinoor, are secured by the permanence of platinum. Platinum, in fact is the rarest and the most precious of the three noble metals - gold, silver and platinum. Its rarity is evident from the fact that some 15 times more gold is mined each year. Platinum is extremely dense and weighs much more than gold. A piece of platinum jewellery contains 95% pure platinum and as compared to it gold jewellery contains much less precious metal. Thus working with platinum requires a high degree of skill that only special craftsmen possess. Hence, it commands a significant price premium over gold.

Platinum occurs in association with other rare metallic elements known collectively as the Platinum group metals, which include platinum, iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium and osminium. Platinum jewellery is typically an alloy of 90% platinum with 10% iridium, as a hardener. Rhodium is used primarily as a plating metal to give platinum a bright hard finish. Ten tons of ore have to be mined to produce a single ounce of platinum and it takes five long months to process platinum ore into pure platinum. Only after this time can skilled hands work their creativity and craftsmanship, transforming platinum into rare, classic and timeless pieces of wearable art that charms and enchants each one of us...

Platinum & Gold

Sleek, sophisticated and fashionable, platinum and 18K gold jewellery is as versatile as it is stunning. The combination of these two precious metals enhances the unique qualities of each. Platinum's white colour beautifully contrasts with yellow gold and adds versatility to your jewellery wardrobe. Two-tone jewellery is very much in vogue and the two metals complement each other perfectly. Platinum jewellery is as versatile as it is beautiful. The choice is yours: platinum with carat gold accents for breathtaking new versatility or, for the purist, the subtle look of all platinum.

Platinum & Diamond

It's trendy, eternal and incorruptible...and is a diamond's best friend. It is the heaviest of the precious metals, weighing almost twice as much as carat gold. Its strength ideally secures diamonds and other precious gems. Platinum's subtle beauty enhances a stone's brilliance and depth. And man has very clearly understood the close relationship between the two metals so much so that the world's famous diamonds, including the Hope, Jonker I and Koh-i-Noor, have been secured till today, by the permanence of platinum.

With its unique qualities and understated look, it blends superbly with the present trends... Whether inspired by classic or contemporary themes, platinum jewellery is perfect for any occasion under the sun, moon or stars...and has taken over the stage. It fills a starring role in jewellery ranging from the most exclusive and important event to a more casual moment, and can be worn comfortably with everything and at any time of the day. Being one of the world's most durable metals, platinum is ideal for jewellery worn daily, since it exhibits little or no material loss, even after prolonged wear. Even after many years, platinum will not wear away or wear down. For example, after many years of wear, a gold wedding bangles will wear down and become thinner. This is not the case with platinum. As with other precious metals like gold, silver, etc., platinum can be scratched. However, with platinum, there is actually no material lost from the scratch as there is with gold. If your platinum jewelry becomes scratched, simply take it to your jeweler for a quick polish.

Platinum jewellery contains much more precious metal than an identical piece of jewellery in gold. To create white gold, yellow gold is alloyed with copper and silver along with small amounts of nickel and zinc to achieve a white look. However, it does not have the same purity, strength, rarity, durability or natural white colour as platinum. Because platinum is so pure, hence it is hypoallergenic and can be worn continuously without losing its luster. In America, platinum jewellery contains either 90% or 95% pure platinum. By comparison, 18 carat gold is 75% pure and 14 carat is 58% pure gold. Platinum will never tarnish or lose its rich white luster. Platinum jewellery marked "Iridplat" contains 90% platinum and 10% iridium. When marked "Plat," an item is at least 95% platinum, with 5% ruthenium. Ten tons of ore must be mined to produce a single ounce of platinum. It takes five months to process platinum ore into pure platinum. Only after this time can skilled hands work their creativity and craftsmanship, transforming platinum into pieces of wearable art.